Lairig Ghru Month 8. August 2015

August marked the eighth instalment of my project to walk and photograph the Lairig Ghru every month during 2015.

Looking up into the Lairig Ghru
I’ve been going through my walk notes from the year, and the August iteration was actually the 11th and 12th times that I’ve done at least part of my ‘standard walk’.

The walk starts from the little car park at Loch an Eilein and follows paths through the Rothiemurchus Estate to the Cairngorm Club Footbridge and to Piccadilly before turning right and climbing up into the Lairig Ghru - over the months I’ve started to give the various landmarks up the path - splitting the route into four chunks each taking roughly an hour to walk).

Part 1. Loch an Eilein to Piccadilly (this is a recognised place name - at least it appears on the Rothiemurchus Estate map)

Part 2 Piccadilly to Top Tree (this is my label - it’s the last big tree beside the path as you climb up from Speyside)

Part 3 Top Tree to Last Ford (again my label - it’s the last distinct ford as you climb up into the Lairig Ghru boulder view)

Part 4 Last Ford to The Top (in this case the high point of the Lairig Ghru, just beyond this (from the perspective of someone coming up from the Spey side) are the Pools of Dee.

This month I had the chance to do the walk twice.  On one day I did the first two parts of the walk (time constraints meant this was all I had time to do), and on the next day the first three parts (the weather forecast was rubbish for the entire day, but the threatened rain didn’t appear until late afternoon).

Part 1. Loch an Eilein to Piccadilly.

Loch an Eilein, Summer 2015
Through Rothiemurchus Estate
Through Rothiemurchus Estate
Cairngorm Club Footbridge

Part 2. Piccadilly to Top Tree

Through the tree line
Top Tree

Part 3. Top Tree to Last Ford

Pathside Mosses
Fox gloves
Way-marking up toward the Sinclair Memorial
Top Ford - snow filled in Winter, water-filled in Spring and very dry by August
And on the third day. 

Once the rain arrived late on the second of my August walk days, it stayed around. I popped back to Loch an Eilein about 16 hours after the rain started, it was still falling steadily.  I took that as my cue to start driving back down to Oxford.

Loch an Eilein, Also Summer 2015

Shetland Summer, August 2015

The weather on Shetland is often a bit of a lottery, and summer is no different to any other time of the year.  

The temperatures might be wee a bit higher, but the winds can still blow and the sea be transformed from enchanting blue to storm-lashed grey in a blink of the eye.

And, of course, there is that uniquely Shetland weather feature that can cause travel havoc around the islands - gale force fog.

Puffins, Sumburgh Head
But not over the last couple of weeks.  

As with any lottery you can, just sometimes, get the winning numbers.  Over the last couple of weeks Shetland has delivered on blue skies, warm temperatures and most remarkable of all light (in some cases, no) wind.

This meant that the puffins were able to enjoy a last few days lazing around in the sunshine at Sumburgh Head before they head out to sea for the winter.  And I got to spend lots of lazy afternoons wandering around Scat Ness - and even, and I don’t do this often,  fall asleep in the afternoon sunshine lying on the beach at Quendale.

Lerwick Harbour

Quendale Beach - perfect for an afternoon snooze

St Ninian's Beach

Scat Ness

Calm afternoon at Scat Ness

And just in case anyone thinks that Shetland has been relocated to somewhere significantly south of 60N, more normal service did appear a few times.

Limited view from the office window.

Walking the Walk, July 2015

This is the seventh iteration this year of my monthly walk up the Lairig Ghru.  

Loch an Eilein, Rothiemurchus Estate

It being high summer in the Scottish mountains one would obviously expect to see clear blue skies and warm temperatures.   Today I was wearing waterproofs and, for some of the day, my woolly Fair Isle hat – my only real concession to the summer weather being the fact that I didn't need to put my gloves on.   In fact the weather wasn't too bad – there were gaps between the showers (isn't that a definition of British summer?) – and at least as I walked up from Loch an Eilein into the Lairig Ghru the rain was blowing against my back.

Climbing through the Forest

It’s been about six weeks since I last did the walk – on that walk the fresh green tree shoots looked very bright, and other dominant colour was of yellow flowers.  This time the green shoots had mellowed to match the rest of the trees, and the yellow flowers replaced by purple ones.  

The birds have also moved on in their breeding cycle. The ptarmigan that were so vociferous a couple of months ago as they tried to distract you away from their nests are now silent, but you just might see them leading their flightless young away from perceived danger.  

The other change was less welcome.  The slightly warmer weather and (on the day I was walking) light winds gave the legendary Scottish midges all the encouragement they need.  I'm really very fond of most forms of wildlife, but I'm really not sure how the midge fits into the bigger picture – would anyone miss the midge?

Top tree - heading into the Lairig Ghru

Cairns on the Path

The other big change in the six weeks was the retreat of the snow.  In mid-June there were still patches of snow at path level, by late July the only snow was very high up on north-facing slopes.  It’ll be interesting to see how soon the new season snow puts in an appearance.

Looking back down into Speyside

Looking through into Deeside

Last Snow

Mist-covered crags

Next walk iteration is planned for early August.  Lets see if the weather improves, if there is fresh snow, or if the midges are any thinner on the ground. I'd be happy if any of these pans out.

The Flow Country

In the far north of Scotland, beyond the traditional northern scenery of mountains and glens lies that mysterious place called the Flow Country.

Into the Flow Country
Caithness and Sutherland are far beyond where most tourists reach, and the few that do get to this part of the world are usually on their way to John O’Groats.  The landscape here has always been forbidding but without the grandeur of the mountains in the south.  There are few roads across the Flow Country, and those that do exist are single track with occasional passing places.  There is one railway line (The Far North Line was listed for axing by Beeching, but eventually reprieved) that threads it’s way North from Inverness across the moor lands until it reaches Wick and Thurso - just occasionally connecting up with the roads.

Trackside on the Far North Line

The Flow Country covers over 1500 square miles of blanket bog up to 5 metres deep that has been building since Scotland was last covered with ice.  Over the time the blanket bogs have been developing in Sutherland, the Romans and Vikings have both come and gone, and bears and wolves have both disappeared from Scotland.

The recent history of the area hasn’t been uneventful either.  

In the 19th Century Sutherland was one of the most dramatic sites for the Highland Clearances - the shameful episode where landowners evicted huge number of residents so that they could expand their sheep farming interests and later their sporting estates too.  

Watchful deer

In the 20th Century the Flow Country suffered further attack from the forestry industry which drained great swathes of the country to make it more suitable for industrial scale tree growing.   

Clearing Forests
Evidence for both of these ‘transformations’ are still obvious.  

There are over-grazed moorlands with big herds of deer - the evidence for over-grazing most dramatic when you see lochs with islands.  The vegetation on the islands is the clearest indication of what the surrounding land would look like given the opportunity.

Tree covered Islands
There are still dense sterile pine plantations in many places - the close-packed trees might result in straight trunks, but completely exclude any other plants, birds or animals. And worse to allow the trees to grow on what was wet bog, lots of drainage networks needed to be dug to lower the water table and as a consequence, completely undermine the layers of peat.

These forestry activities have now been hugely scaled back - and the remaining forests are gradually being cleared, and the drains blocked to allow the water levels to rise again. Already there are indication that the landscape in recovering and the bird life is starting to return.

Lochan Dubh, RSPB Forsinard Flows
In the heart of the Flow Country is the RSPB Forsinard Flows visitor centre.  The visitor centre is on the platform of the little station at Forsinard, and close to one of the little lochans that are typical of much of the Flow Country landscape.  

Forsinard Station
This year there is also a new viewing tower on the reserve, which lets you get a rather better perspective on the landscape than is possible from ground level. There are also plans afoot to establish a Field Centre on the reserve to allow researchers to spend time based on the reserve to better understand how the ecosystem there works and to be able to showcase that work to visitors.  

RSPB Forsinard, Viewing Tower
It would be wonderful if, as the wet land in the Flow Country recovers, there was also a route by which the over-grazing could be wound back to let some of the other parts of the Flow Country recover too.  
Across RSPB Forsinard
The Clearances in the 19th Century flushed people out to make space for sheep and eventually deer, a 21st Century version of the Clearances could push out some of the hunting stock and allow the native species such as wildcat and lynx to be reintroduced, and perhaps even one day with bears and wolves joining them.

The Flow Country is a special place, I hope the development work will not only restore the damage of the last 50 years, but also the longer term ecosystem damage from the last 200 years.

I’ve been fortunate to have had the chance to spend a bit of time visiting the Flow Country over a couple of summers - I’m looking forward to being able to see what the country looks like in winter too.

Northern Scotland June 2015

Another month, another visit to the Cairngorms National Park, with the added bonus of a few days in Sutherland and the extra added bonus of a couple of days in an Inverness hospital.

As I've been doing the various iterations of the Lairig Ghru walk this year (the plan being to do the same walk each month during 2015) I've been saying that while I'll stick to hotels during the winter I'll revert to camping once the weather improves. Once it gets to June (even in Scotland) it's hard to say this with a straight face and book in to an hotel - so for this first time this year the tent was broken out.

And, perhaps surprisingly, the Scottish weather co-operated - I got to spend a couple of dry nights camping and a couple of downright hot days in the mountains.  It was about six weeks since the last walk, and the seasons had clearly moved on.  There was much more bird life visible (and audible) below the tree line, although there were fewer grouse making their presence felt higher up.  The gorse was in flower, and there were lots more insects around (including the legendary scottish midge). The snow banks that were still very obvious in early May have mostly disappeared except in a few protected gullies.

June at the Pools of Dee at the top of the Lairig Ghru
The lower level walking in the forest was very easy, but higher up the boulder fields were pretty attritional under the bright Scottish sun.  Early in the year the boulder fields are covered with snow and offer pretty simple walking, in June there is no alternative to scrambling through, between and over the boulders.  The way-marking cairns high up on the Lairig Ghru are often pretty much impossible to spot until you've passed them.  My only consolation was watching a couple of mountain bikers struggling through the boulder field - they needed to do the same boulder-to-boulder dance I was doing while carrying bikes.

After two days of sunshine (often referred to the Scottish summer) weather reverted to type. The cloud base dropped to Loch an Eilein level, and now that my tent was throughly soaked I decided to pack it up and move on to the second target for this trip.

June at Loch an Eilein, Rothiemurchus Forest
A couple of years ago I'd driven up through the Flow Country in Sutherland en route to Orkney, and have been saying that it deserved a longer visit. This time I arranged to spend several days around both the Flow Country and the north coast of Sutherland.  There have been changes around RSPB reserve at Forsinard since my last visit - the hotel appears to be permanently closed, there is a lovely new viewing tower on the reserve and pretty much every house in the village appears to have an anti-RSPB sign. I don't (yet) understand where the disagreement lies between the RSPB and the locals.   There are also quite a lot of areas around the Flow Country where there appears to be industrial-scale forest clearance underway. I'm hopeful that this is all part of the programme to restore the peat lands there were damaged by large scale drainage and tree planting in the 1970s and 80s, but on the ground it's not always clear quite what's going on.

Lochan Dubh, RSPB Forsinard
New viewing tower, RSPB Forsinard
After a couple of days exploring the Flow Country, I spent a bit of time on the north Sutherland coast - area I've not visited for over 40 years. There are some wonderful beaches along this bit of coast - and, even in the summer, not very many people visiting them.

Ceannebeinne Beach, Sutherland

If you get a chance to visit here, you should also stop off at the Smoo Caves - a dramatic little series of caverns!

Smoo Caves, Sutherland

And the hospital visit? I decided to ignore an ear infection on the assumption that it would sort itself out.  A GP in Ullapool told me that I'd got to a state where some intravenous antibiotics were needed - so if you ever wind up in Inverness, the Raigmore Hospital is highly recommended.  Although I'm hoping to avoid needing a repeat visit next time I'm in the north of Scotland.

Rewilding Britain

I saw today that Rewilding Britain is starting to become visible, and is looking for a first Director.

This is a new charity being established in the UK, to give nature the chance to reclaim at least part of the country.

I've heard chatterings about this for a couple of years and I am both excited and delighted to see this initiative finally getting off the ground.  The vision brochure that accompanies the job advert is inspiring.  It paints a picture of a Britain where we might one day see a wilder side to life all over the country.

So often I feel that the country around us has been beaten into submission by years (and generations and centuries) of over exploitation.  It's time to think a bit harder about this over exploitation and to do something about it.

I'd love one day to be able to walk through a restored forest with just the glimmer of a hope that the rustle in the undergrowth nearby might be a wildcat or lynx.

I'd love one day to walk along a natural river bank with the hope that the ripple in the water might be an otter or beaver stalking it's patch, and to know that the bird song in the spring isn't that of a species tottering on the edge of extinction, but is part of a thriving local natural ecosystem.

I'd love one day soon to stop having to explain to people what rewilding is, simply because it's now part of everyday life in every part of the country.  This month I'm taking part in the Wildlife Trust initiative to encourage us all to do something wild everyday in June.  I'm one of ten thousand people who've said they want to go wild in June - next year I'd like to see 100,000 getting involved.

The reality is that it's going to be an uphill struggle to get rewilding into the mainstream, there are going to be many vested interests talking the initiative down.  And the results won't be instant either. We might well see some changes in the short term, but most of us won't see the bigger changes, but we will at least have the comfort that we gave the changes a chance to happen.

I hope you're going to support the project, I certainly am.

The vision brochure I mentioned is on the Friends of the Earth website - read it, share it.  I'm sure we're going to be seeing and hearing a lot more about this project in the next few years.

Cairngorms May 2015

The story so far.  The plan is to walk from Loch an Eilein, up into the Lairig Ghru each month during 2015.

In January, fabulous clear blue skies, but was eventually forced to retreat by thigh-deep soft snow.

In Febuary, still sunny but had to turn back when the wind through the Lairig Ghru was lifting me off my feet.

In March, glorious still weather meant I was able to get right up to the top of the Lairig Ghru where I could see the Pools of Dee, even if they were still covered with snow.

In April, more sunshine and fast disappearing snow meant that I again got to top of the Lairig Ghru.

So surely my luck would hold and I'd get another bright sunny day in May for my once-a-month walk?

The weather luck runs out, Lairig Ghru

But, to look on the bright side, the object of the project is to record how Rothiemurchus Forest and the Lairig Ghru changes through the year.

On the May walk, one of the most notable changes was that the green gets ever more intense both on the trees and on the ground too (the rain has certainly helped the mosses and ferns to come on).

Getting Greener

The other dramatic change was in how the forest and paths are being used.

Early in the year cross-country skis (and even on occasion snow shoes) were in evidence, gradually being replaced by walking boots.  In May, it felt like the transport of choice was the mountain bike - even if on occasions the most effective way forward was to walk or carry the bike. I might have passed quite a lot of bikes on the upward bits of the path, but they certainly outpaced me on the downhill sections.

Biker passing the last tree

I don't mind walking in the rain or the wind, but there is a point when in combination they make things feel a bit bleak, so at the point when both I and the camera were feeling a bit too soaked I decided to turn back to spend more time down in forest and around Loch an Eilein.

The ford at NH 967 025 - Turning Point on the May walk.

Back in the Rothiemurchus Forest, and below the low clouds. 
Loch an Eilein, beautiful in any weather.

Next trip will be in June - but I'm not taking any bets on the weather.  Given the recent variations, I wouldn't even rule out seeing the snow return.  I had assumed that by June I'd be looking for camp sites rather than hotels....